tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47140026356313773482011-04-21T20:04:55.951-07:00Lee O'Connor travels to Chile and Argentina and paints on his bike. You can follow his journey and see what interventions are made along the way. Setting off in April 2008 and returning in September 2008, this journey has been made possible by the Alastair Salvesen Art Scholarship and will metamorphosise into a painting exhibition at the RSA, Edinburgh 2009.Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.comBlogger461100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-33524628974541707732008-08-18T01:43:00.000-07:002009-03-23T12:35:24.568-07:00

After doing my duty to the galleries of BA and visiting the usual tourist haunts, I finally gave in to the hedonistic antics of hostel life. Not many photos of the city during the day - very much a vampire existence here - but many memories of the nights.a football matchsome folk in the barthe clan hostel

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-70128600450215180242008-07-31T21:02:00.000-07:002009-03-23T12:21:48.957-07:00

Now I have eventually left Ushuaia and flown to Buenos Aires. The fight was delayed so I got a good sleep on the airport floor. I flew here with a Buenos Airian, Andres, who was on holiday in Ushuaia we are going out tomorrow, so tonight is going to be an early one in preparation. Since arriving in BA I have been eating and drinking and going about town with Zaki, a jewelery maker from London,

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-8137238035156864072008-07-21T15:50:00.002-07:002008-07-21T17:15:50.927-07:00

I went snowboarding yesterday with some folk from the hostel and today my body aches. I have to say that it is a lot easier than skiing. I hope to practice my technique here and then carry it on in Scotland. It great fun if you can put up with the initial spectacular crashes and bumps. Many a bruise I have but it comes with the territory. Its good to be doing some exercise again, my belly needs

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-14443084969709782682008-07-21T15:50:00.001-07:002008-07-21T15:50:54.311-07:00

Now I’ve finished my weeklong Spanish class I’m left even more confused. Well not really, they were fairly useful but intense. I still need to brush up on what I’ve learned. Its lucky I have an amigo here, Fancudo, who speaks as little English as I do Spanish so I’m getting plenty practice.I’ve been doing a bit of painting and drawing during the quieter moments although the other week was pretty

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-27042538124750829062008-07-02T13:52:00.000-07:002008-07-02T13:59:46.073-07:00

This is my studio for the next couple of weeks. There aren’t many visitors now so not much in the way of distractions. I start my Spanish lessons in Ushuaia mañana, las dos de la tarde. Looking forward to that, it feels good to have at least one constructive thing to do per day. The weather has turned a bit dull but that’s fine it just makes it feel more homely. The big kitchen in the hostel is

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-63488147020711705682008-06-28T15:41:00.000-07:002008-06-29T06:50:53.467-07:00

I arrived in Ushuaia about a week ago and I’ve just sobered up. Getting from Rio Grande to Tohuin was a bit unmemorable. I think I just wanted to get to my destination and I never really stopped to look around. I treated myself to a cabana that night. The geography between Tohuin and Ushuaia was pretty spectacular though. It was like being back on the west coast of Scotland but with a greater

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-80433999227767711742008-06-17T16:30:00.000-07:002008-06-17T19:22:07.292-07:00

I’m now in Rio Grande, the Argentinean bit of Tierra del Fuego. It was dirt track all the way from Porvenir (Chile) to San Sabastian (Argentina) roughly 100miles. First day was OK the road seemed to be quite solid although a bit bumpy. Most of the way was fairly close to the coast – nice to look at.53º12'35.85"S69º14'26.39"WThe second day looked like it was going to be a cracker. The sun was out

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-64159765059534995342008-06-10T15:58:00.000-07:002008-06-10T16:13:14.984-07:00

I’m now in Punta Arenas, the place I originally proposed to be my stopping point. It took 2 days to cycle here from Puerto Natales. The first day was absolutely freezing and I never set off until noon so I didn’t get far, only to Rio Rubens that is about a 40 miles ride. Actually I only stopped because there was a hotel there and I didn’t want to risk having to camp. Next day I set off at 9.30

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-10786427757933252832008-06-07T16:47:00.001-07:002008-06-10T15:17:18.235-07:00

Here we are at the base of the 3 towers of Torres Del Paine, Albane, Bertille, Charles and myself. It was a four hour hike to get here but certainly worth it.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-13790710152424059762008-06-07T16:42:00.000-07:002008-06-07T16:47:23.574-07:00

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-18292118172732742952008-06-07T16:36:00.000-07:002008-06-07T16:42:35.583-07:00

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-26122617697732774892008-06-05T07:29:00.000-07:002008-06-05T08:01:52.949-07:00

Set off from Rio Gallegos in the hope reaching El Calefate in a few days. At first the wind was in my face and cycling more than 5miles per hour was a struggle. After about 15 miles I turned a corner at Guer Aike and it wasn’t so bad. I cycled on until it was dark and an Argentinean policeman offered me a lift a few miles to a lodgings told him I was just going to camp, bueno. Camping that night

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-53735576417840832582008-05-30T15:12:00.000-07:002008-05-30T15:52:40.481-07:00

I’m in Rio Gallegos. It was a 13 hour bus ride that was really comfy. Tomorrow I head for El Calefante by bike. This means I have to head north again but it's a main route so the roads are sure to be clear. Good weather is expected although freezing temperatures will freeze my manos. Rio Gallegos isn’t a bad wee city; it has an art gallery and a few various other museums. I’m staying at the

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-25408500783892892542008-05-29T13:35:00.000-07:002008-05-29T14:02:04.857-07:00

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-102586698483266712008-05-29T12:24:00.000-07:002008-05-29T12:56:24.861-07:00

It was a brisk morning. Bought some thermal pants and got on my bike for Bajo Caracoles. I wasn’t sure if I would make it in a day because Gerard, the biker, had marked on my map as most of the road being bad i.e. no tarmac. It wa good at first with the wind on my back then the road started to get icy. Next, of course, there was no tarmac. The road surface was sticky and slushy and built up

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-29508300290047311112008-05-29T11:53:00.000-07:002008-05-29T12:23:27.378-07:00

Yes. The luxury of public transport yet again from Coyhaique to Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez then a wee ferry over to Chile Chico. As you can see by the photo the road to Puerto Ingeniero Ibanez has disappeared under snow so I didn’t think I was robbed of a doable cycle. I arrived off the ferry at Chile Chico and reloaded my bike and set off for the Argentina border, which was just around the corner.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-69179735523699053352008-05-22T07:44:00.000-07:002008-05-23T15:26:20.335-07:00

Hostal Bon

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-49047046411135697862008-05-22T07:33:00.000-07:002008-05-22T08:37:58.934-07:00

Going to Puerto Chacabuco to P. Aisen I met my first cyclist coming the other way. Gerard was his name, a German fellow. He was on a 4 year cycle around the world, now that’s hardcore. By the side of the road he wrote down 3 pages of tips, maps and hostels to help me all the way south. Thanks Gerard!I stayed in P.Aisen for a night then headed to Coyhaique. The trip started of pleasant enough but

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-33031292346644282982008-05-22T07:19:00.000-07:002008-05-22T07:31:51.498-07:00

On Sunday I got on the ferry in Puerto Monttand it was like this.Woke up on Monday morning sailing though the Guaitecas Islands and it was like this!

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-12133605360032780732008-05-22T07:11:00.000-07:002008-05-23T14:13:17.849-07:00

I went for a wee visit to Chiloe Island and got absolutely sodden. I looked on google earth for some camping spots before I left. I found a nice one just before Ancud. I was in no hurry so I dondled my way to Pargua where the ferry left for Chiloe. Along the way couldn’t help but notice everywhere was flooded from the previous nights torrential downpour. So I hoped I was over the worst of the

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-87733194525365481762008-05-14T16:52:00.000-07:002008-05-14T19:41:29.515-07:00

I’ve have been in Puerto Monnt quite a few days now. I missed the last ferry to Puerto Chacabuco as I was climbing a volcano. I need to wait for the next one on Sunday. I have decided to set off down the island of Chiloe tomorrow morning (Thurs) and return to P Montt Saturday evening, in time to organize my ferry trip.I met Torsten, a Social Worker from Hamburg, while drinking coffee at Claudio’s

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-24387646992847889682008-05-11T14:39:00.000-07:002008-05-11T16:07:06.188-07:00

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-7888474380550818632008-05-11T14:38:00.000-07:002008-05-11T14:39:44.481-07:00

Mario, the guy that owns the hostel I’m staying at, informs me that the recent volcanic eruption in Chaiten means there is an exclusion zone of a radius of 70km round it. This means I will be taking a luxurious 300 mile cruse to Puerto Chacabuco. Well I don’t know about luxurious but it’s going to be better than the bike. Mario also informs me that salmon fish farms here have the ISA virus and he

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-70723013655490568162008-05-11T14:24:00.000-07:002008-05-11T14:38:36.131-07:00

39º33'.90"S 72º54'31.79"W40º47'58.06"S 73º09'55.71"W

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-17046996516155423802008-05-11T14:16:00.000-07:002008-05-11T14:21:43.714-07:00

It’s Sunday 11th May today and I arrived in Puerto Montt yesterday afternoon on a clear beautiful day, unusual for here. I think today is a bit more typical, overcast and a bit windy. In Temuco I had booked accommodation in Puerto Montt for Saturday 1pm. So I was determined to make it here in 2 and half days. It was Ruta cinco all the way, that generally means the going is not to bad. Cycled on

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-61378012744612310542008-05-07T10:59:00.000-07:002008-05-07T12:00:06.094-07:00

Set of from Concepcion going to Temuco. Peddled by the coast on a beautiful day. Made it to somewhere between Tres Pinos and Antiguala. A guy by the name of Francisco rode about 7 miles with me on his bmx. He shared some lunch with me. I offered him a biscuit and he put the packet in his pocket. Ach well something lost in the translation of that. Fair enough I had another packet. Camped in a new

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-91597360923072519362008-05-01T15:17:00.000-07:002008-05-01T15:29:02.837-07:00

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-10153632833981520172008-04-30T14:26:00.000-07:002008-04-30T14:28:33.301-07:00

It's me with Chile flag.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-57705956026924881742008-04-30T14:16:00.001-07:002008-04-30T14:25:46.241-07:00

Slow puncture again just kept pumping it up as I knew it wouldn’t take long to get to Concepcion. First big town I arrive at was Tome where I got my first view of the Pacific Ocean. Stocked up on some food at Keymarket where I got chatting to an employee. I was packing my goods in to my panniers when he came outside with his boss and ceremoniously presented me the Chilean flag. I was most pleased

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-7634519499783242192008-04-30T14:13:00.000-07:002008-04-30T14:16:03.883-07:00

Clear sky again and beautiful scenery. Not a great mileage today as it was very hilly. Dried my clothes. Found a nice forest to sleep in.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-25099565330034809112008-04-30T14:09:00.001-07:002008-04-30T14:13:30.677-07:00

Half way to Talca I got a puncture. I fixed it in one of the many ramshackled shop/cafes advertising Pan+Bebida. The chap in the shop had a bucket of water outside which is handy for the mending of punctures. I carried on past Talca and noticed my back wheel wobbling, puncture! Stop to cook up some lunch and fixed it. I used better patches this time. As I was pumping the tyre I broke the pump so

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-44387567959251850542008-04-30T14:07:00.000-07:002008-04-30T14:09:01.861-07:00

Back on Ruta 5, cool overcast day pretty easy going. Stopped off in San Fernado for lunch and met Jaime. He introduced himself after I had eaten and took delight in showing me his John Deer tractor that he was immensely proud of, and proud of his children of course. I was the first to hear that his lover was having a baby so he was in a bit of a mess. Anyway we struggled to speak to one another

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-27966734293932455502008-04-30T14:05:00.000-07:002008-04-30T14:07:03.990-07:00

It was a misty start to the day. Packed up the tent and headed off checking compass regularly. After a few miles I was overjoyed to see a sign with a place name that was on my map and it was south. I was that excited I took a picture. Cycling though miles and miles of vineyards I arrived at Paine where I joined Ruta 5, the Pan American Highway. There is a lot of satisfaction to be had cycling

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-23963944053193521362008-04-30T14:02:00.000-07:002008-04-30T14:05:16.745-07:00

Leaving Santiago I was heading south down Ruta 5 but me being me I headed east – 40 miles in the wrong direction. I stopped off at an internet shop full of kids playing computer games and looking a porn sites turning round to make sure nobody was watching. I was going to find out where the hell I was on Google earth as asking people how to get on to Ruta 5 was proving complicated. The guy running

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-78252883704379255302008-04-21T19:10:00.000-07:002008-04-21T19:19:46.408-07:00

Hola again. Not much happened today just drifting around the city on the bike. It was really busy with shoppers and cars a plenty. It’s great fun just milling about on these even plane roads. I wanted to see a few things today but Monday seems to be the day museums are closed. There’s always tomorrow I guess. At last I got hold of an adaptor electrico for my laptop. I bought it of a couple of

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-26863398365278247662008-04-21T05:05:00.001-07:002008-04-21T08:03:42.941-07:00

I went out on the bike today. I reckon it’s the best way to see places in such a short time. Folk tend to ride on the pavement here dodging in and out of pedestrians and what's more nobody seems to mind. Lucky really, since there's one-way traffic systems all throughout the city. I got on the roads for quite a while today, getting used to riding on the right hand side. Good day for it, being

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-37201030523038834692008-04-19T19:12:00.000-07:002009-03-23T12:53:49.712-07:00

What a grand sleep I had last night, after a few glasses of vino of course. Put the bike together in the morning in the presence of last night’s host who was excited as I was. I got out the Swiss army knife and proceeded to cut all the cable ties that held the bike together in its box. Then as I was talking to yon host about bike stuff I jabbed my thumb with the knife and blood was a spurting.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-67066904229755489832008-04-18T18:30:00.000-07:002008-04-18T18:39:22.496-07:00

Well planes went well. I was a wee be apprehensive about the connections I had to make but the system worked. I was awe struck when I woke up after a wee sleep - probably snoring as my nose is blocked – and saw the mighty Andes. It was just beyond that when we touched down in the dustiest place in the world, Santiago.Got a taxi into town. I know if I were a true adventure cyclist I would have put

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-3853952511254848612008-04-18T17:52:00.000-07:002008-04-18T18:00:52.817-07:00

That was a crap night’s sleep. Train seats are not made for sleeping. And I don’t know what time those gibbering kidos ran out steam but they got the rest of the bevy out of the buffet cart before it closed. My eyes are feeling like they have been rubbed with sand paper and as I walk in London the ground is a wee bit wobbly. Quick coffee should do the trick. Going to go on the Tate to Tate boat

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-54483404308579344042008-04-18T17:12:00.000-07:002008-04-18T17:18:35.756-07:00

Set off at last. Taking the train from Fort William to Glasgow, then the sleeper to London. This Fort to Glasgow journey is fantastic. I don't think I've been on it since I was a wee boy, but what a joy not to be driving or worse still on the bus. Before driving, the bus was always the option for a porper like myself. Well I'm going to get a coffee now and see what like. This change of view

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-8621739637703801122008-04-12T05:34:00.000-07:002008-04-12T09:46:56.555-07:00

Cars in the garage needing a clutch cable so I think it could be a good time to be on my bike. Where can I go in the last days before I’m Chile bound?I thought I’d better try out a couple hundred miles with bike fully laden. So it’s from Strontian to Airlie to see Eddie and family and then back (Airlie is between Alyth and Kirriemuir). Well I say I would start at Strontian but I actually started

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-77806138936119480472008-04-03T12:47:00.000-07:002008-04-11T12:26:57.810-07:00

A text request.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-30978925592853851812008-04-02T14:16:00.000-07:002008-04-03T08:57:30.517-07:00

Take a sideways glance at my bike. Cable tied up for the connaisseurs of bike porn.Thought I better try this out before I go. Doesn't take long to take it apart and put back together again. Went for 30mile cycle tonight from Strontian through Glen Tarbert to Kingairloch back to Strontian with the bike like this.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-15555054588895817012008-04-02T13:34:00.000-07:002008-04-03T10:04:30.207-07:00

Norman has no time for Bonnie Prince Charlie. This is us on his Nemeton Tour. A braw day for all the angst he expects.[blurb]Norman Shaw is currently working on a project he has called The Nemeton Tour. A nemeton is a sacred site - usually pre-Christian or a place where all kinds of knowledge is held and exchanged.[/blurb]And here's A painting for the tour. 1st cycling painting I suppose. (sorry

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-48935027073803656422008-04-02T13:11:00.000-07:002008-04-02T13:23:53.547-07:00

Remember even if you have a big tent never forget your sleeping bag!Pre-Chile cycling round Loch Shiel on to Lochailort then back to Strontian.

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4714002635631377348.post-34968128508382618942008-04-01T16:44:00.000-07:002008-04-01T16:54:14.689-07:00

Lee O'Connorhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15061216877718955362noreply@blogger.com0